Release valve?

A friend mentioned today that this blog appeared to be my "release valve."  I suppose she was right--and while I haven't written in nearly a year, maybe I should pick up on things again...

I caveat that I may not always write about tailoring--I'm not doing it anymore--I experienced a burnout of sorts--too many pairs of pants and sleeve cuffs left me wanting for more interesting projects but with less time to make them happen...so I stopped--it took a six month lag or so to move business along to other places, and I get the occasional trickle of traffic, but I think I can safely say most jobs are out of my hair.

So, maybe more to come in the future...  

That Mad Men thing...

While I'm on the vintage thing, I received a question about how the women on Mad Men are able to look the way they do...

Does it take hours of prep?  Is it only achievable in the TV studio?

Well, yes and no...Yes, in the way that it does take some effort--hours, probably not, but an hour, yes.

[First, a disclaimer that I wasn't alive in the 1960s, however I have re-created it many times for the stage alongside research and many questions.]

So, what goes under those fabulous dresses and suits?

First, bras were making the transition from the bullet shape (that we associate with the 1950s--the bras with points that could poke your eye out) to the more natural shape.

One example, the Lady Marlene (which is still made today) was boned, nipped in the waist and had underwires to hold the girls up.  If you didn't have this look naturally, the bra could help you achieve it.

But with the bra alone, we now have a ridge issue.  The bra shows through the dress.  What to do?  A slip!  A slip would at least skim over the bra bumps, making them less visible.

That takes care of the top half of the body--now for the lower half.  Girdles kept tummies in with their spandex (yes, newly invented this era) control fronts. (see pic).   They were the 1960s version of Spanx--however instead of making the tummy go away as we desire nowadays, they merely kept the area firm.  A little tummy (under control) was sexy.

Those were the elements at the 60s woman's disposal.  While we may not wear slips much today, maybe we should consider what  they do for a silhouette.

Undergarments have obviously gotten better since then, and if you happen to get invited to one of these Mad Men parties, you now have lots of shapers, hose and waist nippers at your disposal.  Modern fashion demands much of our bodies.  We have to be in perfect shape, we have to conform to the clothes.  No!  Make the clothes work for you.  The devices are there--it's just about finding the right ones.

Cheers,
The Trendy Tailor

A word (or many) about vintage clothes...

Some thoughts from the Trendy Tailor for making those vintage finds into current, wearable clothes...

I have many clients who love vintage clothes.  I love vintage too, being a costume designer--I am constantly finding excuses to put the real thing on stage.

1950s styles can flatter an hourglass shape, or create one
on a body that needs some curves.

But, if you want to be a retro maven, you still have to pay attention to what looks good on your body.  If you're an hourglass, try 50s styles; 40s styles with wider shoulders can balance out wider hips.  20s styles are amazing on a lithe, slim body.

After you find your "decade," get familiar with how clothes are sized.  For example: if you look best in 1950s styles, know that it took a lot of undergarments to make that shape.  Women didn't just walk into those clothes--waist cinchers, bullet bras and crinolines created the right foundation for that silhouette.  If you are one of the lucky ones who can walk right into to a vintage piece, good for you--you are lucky indeed (but probably frustrated with modern clothes.)

[Much emphasis has been put on the body in the past decade.  We feel we have to be perfectly in shape to wear clothes.  Thank the clothing gods for Spanx, push up bras and other miracles.  Despite the work to get in these garments, it saves us the "if I just lost 5 lbs." grief.]

Okay, now you've found the right clothes.  Time to find the modern-friendly length, fit and pairings.

Here's an example.  In the mid 1930s, the popular skirt length was a few inches below the knee--not a flattering length to our modern eyes.  Found a great 30s print day dress with matching belt?  Have it hemmed to just below the knee for a conservative but flattering look, or above the knee if you're petite.  Consider replacing the matching belt with a leather or patent one.  Use the cute vintage belt to dress up a plain top.

Other things to look at to modernize a vintage piece:

1. sleeve length: make sure it's not an afterthought
2. removing extra shoulder padding (esp. in 80s jackets--it can make it wearable again without those power pads)
3. accessories: mixing up the self (same fabric) accessories the piece has with modern ones
4. hem length: a quick fix for a lot of impact
5. mixing it up with modern pieces--don't wear the entire 60s suit by itself--wear the jacket with a hip black dress and wear the skirt with a modern jacket and shell.  Super cute.

Happy shopping!

A quick post about knowing thyself...

Been teaching costume design for actors lately, and it's been an interesting journey for me taking what I normally do without explaining much and translating it into presentations for the people who are my inspirational canvas...and sometimes greatest challenge.

Designing for actors has given me a pragmatism that I'm not sure I'd have otherwise--I still ask the questions in fittings:

How does it feel?
Can you move in this?
What do you think?
Do you feel like your character?

And although I'm dressing a character as opposed to always making a person look gorgeous, I strive to do both, even if the gorgeous is sweatpants and a t-shirt.

I would encourage you, the fashion forwards or the people reading this that need help identifying their clothing needs, ask these same questions of your wardrobe:

How do I feel and think?
Can I move in this or do I look good only propped up against a wall?
How am I putting my best face forward?

I hope that you find that your best clothes make you feel confident and in control.  Clothes are our modern-day armor--and you need the best armor possible to face the world.  It is your first impression that speaks volumes even before you've opened your mouth.

Shape up your look--shop smartly, tailor it up and show 'em what you're really made of.

Love thyself,
-The Trendy Tailor

When it's just too tight...

I was in the car today when a woman in a fine black dress and great shoes walked by.  I thought "hey, she looks great!" until I got a closer look at her...  She was bulging out of the dress, and she was not pregnant, I was sure of it.

Then thinking "how sad, I wonder if she even knows...or worse, she knows and wears that dress anyway..."

So I began to think about how she could be helped.

Fact: the dress was too small--it was too slim cut in the middle and had no apparent seams dividing the torso besides the sides.  The ultimate solution is: get a bigger dress...  However, to lay out the options:

1. Spanx came to mind.  They might smooth out the lumps and bumps and come in all different configurations...great for everyday...so great, there are lots of copycats, but Spanx really is the best in my book...

2. Nancy Ganz's Bodyslimmer: a genre of bra/slip combo that also slims out the lumps and bumps, but is more substantial.... I swear by them as a modern girdle of sorts and use them in 1930s shows.

3. Miracle suit: an hourglass figure maker, that wills the body into shape with it's multiple hooks and spandex.  Perfect under those structured dresses that need a little more oomph.  Also makes swimsuits!

4. Yummie Tummie: this line of clothing that can be worn as a layering piece or a foundation garment.  Hidden interior panels take a visual 5lbs off!

Girdles for men?

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/08/18/AR2010081804365.html

Today's post is just a link about Spanx and other control garments for men.  I'm thinking, "it's about time!" Like the article says, it's hard to wear those pencil cut Euro suits if you're a few inches too big in one place or another (although TT sez it's still not always a good idea to wear them anyway.)  But, the idea that the figure could look more svelte under the suit is a great thing.

Although we're past the days of the 19th century corset, a little garment-induced nip-tuck is a welcome 21st century innovation.

What do you think, readers?  Is this a good thing, or a groan?  The WaPo thinks it might be a sign of apocalypse....

While this man looks much like Teddy Roosevelt, TR did not wear a corset...

#13 Just because it closes on your body doesn't mean it fits...

 This is long overdue, and probably where I should have started...  and yes, at many of your requests, I will start adding pictures.  


I have been seeing lots of tight clothing lately--not because I've been hanging out in clubs or bars...just on the streets: pedestrians and passer-bys.


If you have to lie down to put your pants on, they're probably too tight.  


If your shirt gapes between the buttons and can't be remedied by a snap or hook, it's too tight.

If you can't bend over without showing plumbers' crack, your jeans are too low.


Jersey or stretch fabrics don't equal one size fits all.


If you are light headed, or your thighs tingle (and you're not excited), you might have meralgia paresthetica and who wants that?!


Now if this is you, don't fret.  The trendy tailor can still make some magic.  Seams can sometimes be let out, spliced and splayed to make a garment like new.